Susan Silver Antiques

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CARING FOR ANTIQUE FURNITURE

If you are fortunate enough to possess fine antique furniture, you will wish to keep it looking good and staying that way. With a little loving attention, a good piece should last another century or two, giving the same pleasure to succeeding generations that you have had while it has been in your care. The following tips from leading restorers have been successfully tried and tested over many years.

• Antique furniture should never be placed close to heating vents, radiators or any source of direct heat or direct sunlight, as this can lead to veneers lifting and joints drying out. When wood is subjected to a dry atmosphere, it gradually gives up moisture and starts to shrink and split along the grain. It should be kept at least two feet from any heat source. Proper humidity levels are considered essential to the integrity of antique furniture and is the responsibility of the purchaser. It is advisable to invest in a good humidifier, either the free-standing type that uses several quarts of water a day, or one that can be plumbed-in permanently in a central location of the house. For a normal indoor temperature of 60-70 degrees, aim to maintain 45-55% relative humidity. Buy a good quality hygrometer at the hardware store to monitor humidity levels.

• Dust with a soft cotton cloth or feather duster. Do not use spray dusters as they contain silicone which can ultimately damage your wax finish.

• Do not overpolish furniture; too much wax can become sticky. For most furniture once a year should be enough. A dining table in daily use should perhaps be wax polished more often. Use only a good quality paste wax (carnauba), not a commercial spray or wax. Follow the directions on the can. Put one or two tablespoons of wax inside a few layers of cheese cloth or old cotton tee-shirt and knead the wax through the cloth, forming a pad. Rub in the direction of the grain. Avoid smears and streaks by rubbing the wax as evenly as possible. Buff with a clean lint-free soft cloth to a mellow luster. The heat produced by friction when polishing softens the wax and the pressure of the hand produces a flat, reflective surface. This is what gives the piece of furniture it's shine.

• A 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water is also a good cleaner if a dining table gets greasy or sticky. Use a damp cloth, not wet. Rub dry and wax sparingly.

• Drawers that do not run well can be eased by rubbing pieces of candle wax along the friction parts, i.e., runners and sides.

• Do not set drinks glasses, vases of flowers, hot containers etc., on surfaces without a coaster or mat protection. Serious water or heat marks on table surfaces should only be dealt with by a professional restorer.

• If pieces of inlay or veneer come off, e.g., when dusting, be sure to keep them, however small. They will save hours of a restorer’s time – and your money.

• The patina that builds up on a piece of furniture as a result of many years of wear, polishing, oxidation and light, is very precious. Patina is the aging process that distinguishes poor quality from the very best. Unless the surface is really very badly marked and the finish no longer protects the wood adequately, you should never consider having the surface stripped and re-polished.

• Regard your fine furniture as something requiring regular maintenance, like your house and your car, and get a good professional restorer to look it over every few years. In this way you will minimize the amount of major work to be done in the long run.

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